Care For Fish

Terms and Conditions

(By Purchasing)

Fish/Plants from fishkis.com, who is the seller (“SELLER”), you the buyer (“BUYER”) agree and fully affirm that you, the BUYER, will hold and use the Fish/Plants received from Seller upon shipment of the Fish/Plants in accordance with all state, local and federal laws applicable to you, the Buyer. Further, you accept full responsibility and liability for the use, misuse, containment release, sale, transfer, relocation and confinement of the Fish/Plants. Buyer agrees to indemnify and defend and hold harmless Seller from any and all negligence and all liabilities, claims, losses, costs, fines and damages resulting from or connected with the Fish/Plants provided by Seller, it’s agents or employees.

No verbal agreement or electronic agreement, including any statements made in emails, exchanged between Buyer and Seller will supersede the terms of this Agreement, unless in writing and signed by both Buyer and Seller.

If any portion or portions of this agreement are determined to be unenforceable by a court of law, all remaining portions will remain valid and enforceable.

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FOR MORE IN DEPTH CARE INSTRUCTIONS PLEASE CHECK http://ouraquaponics.blogspot.com/

I am giving you the minimum basics.  I believe you need these basics and the fish will not only survive but grow fast and healthy.  If you ever have any questions, email me directly.  But this BLOG is INCREDIBLE!!!!!

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                                                       ARRIVAL
When the fish arrive please have a “cycled tank”  ready.  I recommend at least two weeks.  Many have informed me the day of or before shipping that they had an ammonia or Nitrate spike.  From my experience only 50% of tanks cycle in one week.  Sometimes it takes 3 weeks!
Make sure the temp is above 78. I prefer 82 for the first month, this is their ideal temp, and they will grow fastest, but after the first month, you may go down to 72.

There are several different ways to acclimate the new babies to their new home.  Here are two more popular ones.
1)  When they arrive put the bag into the aquarium, and add about 10% of your aquarium water to the bag every 7 minutes.  After about 20 minutes, release the fish.
2) Put the bag in a bucket under the aquarium and run an air hose from the aquarium to the bag.  When the bag is full of water put the fish into your tank.
Either way is acceptable.

Never put any additives in the water especially if you plan on eating the fish!  The only thing approved for fish intended as food is Salt (pond/aquarium) and vitamin C.  I use 1/8 teaspoon of powdered Sodium Ascorbate (Vitamin C) for every 55 gallons of water.  Vitamins C and Salt will help with their immune system, parasites, respiratory system, fin rot, etc.

 

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FEEDING

For the first month I recommend monitoring ammonia and all other levels with minimal feeding, two maybe three times a day.  After the first month they should be two maybe three inches and fully acclimated and you can begin to feed more.  You must have a filter that can handle/break down the waste.  I always recommend trying to grow the ones you buy from me and breed them.  Than experimenting with the offspring, to see what they can handle as far as tank density/feeding/etc.  Within 2-4 months they will start breeding,  just be a little patient.
They can be fed duckweed almost immediately or other high protein plants.  I would still recommend feeding at least 50% of their diet my food, or other commercial food for farmed fish until they reach at least 4“.  These foods contain important ingredients to help the fish grow strong and fast, such as vitamin C for stronger immune system.  When they become 2”-3” other foods such as worms, insects can also be added as a treat.

When they  become 4” they will eat just about anything.  I have heard from my customers they will eat almost anything.  You would not belive some of the foods I have been told they were fed!!!  They will eat table scraps, such as chicken/meat.  Some customers have told me they go to their local restaurants and ask for  scraps/veggies.  Some customers have told me they grow fly larvae.  I grow red worms for them.

If you ‘power feed’ be very careful, especially with commercial food. They will become accustomed to eating as much as possible as fast as possible.  Some foods expand in water. Such as bread/pellets.  These will expand in their bellies and cause organ damage and death.

If they do not finish eating everything in 7-8 minutes take the food out and feed less next time.  I recommend feeding a little often.  Even 6 times a day, but a little bit.  Much better than to have them used to gorging 1-2 times a day.

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                                                    Water Changes
I love water changes as do the fish.  Easiest way to have clean water.  But not the first month, and never more than 20% when they are under 2”.  Always keep the temp constant.  If your aquarium is 80 degrees put 80 degree water in.  if you can not, add 10% of the amount of water you took out every 30 minutes.  For example, if you do a 25% water change in a 100 gallon tank, add 3 gallons back into the tank every 30 minutes if you can not heat the water to 80 degrees.  As they get bigger, they will be more prone to temp changes, but it is not healthy for them.  Just like us, if we go outside in the winter we will get sick, so will they.  Depending on how overstocked your tank is, you may do a 80% water change daily but I would recommend this for people who have much experience with overstocked tanks.  If you do not, try to keep to 5-7 gallons per fish.  If you have a 100 gallon tank, 25 would be ideal for a beginner.  If you have experience with overstocked tanks, than you know your limit.

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Filtering:
Highly recommended to get a filter that can filter 5 times your aquarium size in one hour.  For a 100 gallon tank, I would recommend a 500 gallon per hour filter minimum especially if they are 3” or bigger.
If you shoot me an email, I can direct you to cheaper filters from Amazon, etc. and pond filters, etc.  the best are the owns you build, and for 80% less than you can buy.

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                                                                    Air
An average tilapia can grow 1 pound if fed 1.1 pound of food and 1.1 pound of air.  I can also direct you to some commercial air pumps as well.

Lowering holding costs:
There are many costs associated with growing a tilapia.

If you were to feed your tilapia only food bought from my site it would cost you about $4-$5 per pound.  We have already gone through alternative foods

Electric can be your biggest holding cost.  If you have separate tanks, by connecting them and using one pump and one filter your electric bill can be lowered by 80%+.  As the water flows from one tank to another it can aerate the water as well helping with lowering cost for air pumps as well.  There is solar/compost/propane/insulation/etc.  Greenhouses are growing in Chicago, Minneapolis, New York, Canada, just to name a few, 365 days of the year with minimal heating costs.  Again, I can help with heating as well.

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                                                                   Aquaponics!
One of the easiest/best ways to raise fish!
In simple terms Aquaponics is using fish to grow plants, and plants to grow fish up to four times faster!
Yes!  And lower costs for both.  You can grow veggies for the fish, and the waste the fish make will feed the plants.  And the plants will filter the water!

I have experimented with aquaponics since Nov. 2012.  I did not take any classes or have an advisor come to give me advise at $100 an hour.  Here are the minimum basics I have found to have a successful aquaponics system.

1) Have a hard filter.  The waste will clog your roots and cause ammonia spike.  Even if it is a 5 gallon bucket you turned into a swirl filter, have a hard filter.  And of course a biological filter.  Lava rock is great media for bio filtering.
2) One square foot of planting area per fish. In one square foot you can plant one tomato plant, or 5 strawberry plants.   Remember I told you in an aquarium you can go 5-7 gallons per full grown fish?
I had forty 6-12” male tilapias in my 100 gallon tank (very crowded but I did it as an experiment).  I planted 200 strawberry plants in 2” PVC piping and have had no deaths to either fish or plants.  (Well about 25% of my strawberries died the first week, but I think it was more the shipping/supplier than the system).  And have not needed to change water.  Over the course of two months, and have had strawberries and have harvested them.  I started with bare root plants.  I am near 3 gallons per fish in a aquaponic system using the square foot method.  I think I can put more fish in, but I can’t fit them!
3) Add iron to you system.  I add about 25% of what the label tells me to add.
4) Use less pond salt.  depending on the type of plants I use 50%-75% less salt than what the label advises.

5) It is a numbers game!  The more plants you experiment with, the more you will see what works for you.  You can never have too many plants (but you can have too few) so plant and plant!  Some will not make it.  I have seen watercress grow super fast in aquaponic systems but in my system it dies in days, sometimes it takes a couple weeks.  Tomatoes, strawberries,  basil and kale love it, so I stick to those!  I try new plants, and have actually gotten peppers and cucumbers now, but there were some other crops that I could not get to grow.

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If you need more info on aquaponics or, especially Tilapia, email me directly at lifishkis@hotmail.com
I may not be an expert, and if I do not know, I will say bluntly, I have never done/heard of this.  And just like with my watercress, some things that work in my aquarium may not in yours, but I can keep your fish growing strong, fast, and healthy.